Setchu: Caught in the Nets for S/S 27 | Milan Men Fashion Week

Witness a miraculous catch of Japanese precision and Italian savoir-faire: watch the full Setchu spring/summer 2027 runway presentation now on FashionTV!

Unveiled to a captivated audience during Milan Fashion Week, designer Satoshi Kuwata delivered his most intimate, emotionally resonant collection to date for Setchu’s S/S 2027 season. Titled “Caught in the Nets,” the collection serves as a poetic translation of Kuwata’s recent travels to the abundant fishing grounds of Gabon.

Navigating a world of constant change, the 2023 LVMH Prize winner intentionally rejected the industry’s pressure for commercial excess – editing the presentation down to a hyper-focused, masterfully executed selection of looks. The result is a striking narrative where everyday utilitarian clothing is elevated into a fluid, graceful, and highly protective contemporary armor. The runway came alive with a genderless cast of “sirens” enveloped in intricate textile geometry.

The collection’s core motif was beautifully realized through multi-colored networks of leather cords, meticulously hand-knotted by artisans using the traditional “Japanese Square Knot” technique. These fragile yet incredibly resilient net overlays gracefully draped over olive dresses and sharp tailoring, responding organically to the body’s movement. Kuwata seamlessly merged Savile Row tailoring precision with Japanese origami principles, introducing a dynamic tension between the rectangle and the circle.

Jersey fabrics were held taut by large, clean circular cavities piercing through minimalist black dresses and white tops, framing the skin in fragments while demonstrating an absolute mastery of mathematical cut and hidden fastening systems.

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