Erdem: Gender, Illusion, & the Legacy of Barbette for S/S 27 | London Fashion Week

1920s Paris, avant-garde illusion, and fluid elegance – explore Erdem S/S 27 on FashionTV!

For spring/summer 2027, Erdem Moralioglu draws inspiration from the legendary 1920s American aerialist Barbette – born Vander Clyde Broadway – whose high-wire trapeze acts in Paris captivated Jean Cocteau and the French avant-garde.

Barbette’s art lay in the fluid illusion between genders: conjuring ethereal femininity while aloft, only to reveal conscious masculinity at the curtain call, embodying what Cocteau famously described as the “supernatural sex of beauty.” A century later, Erdem translates this suspended world into a striking exploration of transformation.

The collection intentionally pushes and pulls the traditional architecture of masculine tailoring and feminine couture. Structured sartorial lines dissolve into delicate drapery, while tense, luminous silhouettes honor the fluid space between identities.

Proving that beauty needs no resolution, Erdem delivers a deeply poetic S/S 2027 showcase where gender becomes a performance and fashion exists on a high wire of endless possibility.

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